Heels on the cobbles of a lane too narrow for them. The blue settling over the bay as the party begins. A grandmother crying while nobody notices.
I come from press photography, and I never really left it. Nice suits that habit: an old town crossed faster on foot than by car, heels on the cobbles, and the blue settling over the bay as the party begins.
My Nice address is on Rue Sainte-Réparate, a few steps from the cathedral, in the heart of the old town. That is not incidental for a wedding: this is where the best of Nice is concentrated, and it is also the quarter that demands the most organisation.
The lanes are narrow, heavily used, and vehicle access is awkward. On almost every wedding I photograph here, we move faster on foot than by car.
That needs preparing. Walking time has to go into the schedule, the bride needs shoes, and the passages have to be chosen for the hour you will use them. In return, the old town offers within three hundred metres a variety other cities cannot match: ochre façades, washing at the windows, staircases, and the sea at the end.
Château de Crémat, on the Nice hills, has private indoor spaces and a glasshouse. That is a genuine wet-weather option, which is rare at this level of setting.
Domaine du Mont Leuze, at Villefranche, offers an east-facing view that shelters the symbolic ceremony from the late sun, a terrace looking out over the whole of Nice, fine gardens for the couple session, and an indoor room if it rains.
Cap Estel, at Èze-Bord-de-Mer, lets you keep everything in one place: symbolic ceremony on a terrace, cocktails on a second, dinner in the garden, couple session in the grounds, infinity pool, private beach below. Fireworks over the water are possible, and lunch the next day is served on the beach.
Château Eza, in Èze, is exceptional and asks you to build walking into the schedule: the village is entirely pedestrian, with stairways and cobbled lanes. The late afternoon light on the terraces above the Mediterranean is remarkable, while the surrounding lanes allow quieter portraits. In high season you also share it with visitors, so the moment and the route have to be chosen precisely.
Bastide du Roy, at Antibes, with its formal gardens, Provençal architecture and water feature, produces plays of light I rarely find elsewhere.
For weddings that call for more, there is Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, the Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, La Chèvre d'Or at Èze, Belles Rives at Juan-les-Pins where arriving by boat is still possible, and the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc with its nine hectares.
Late afternoon, when the sun passes behind the hills and the bay takes on the colour the Promenade is famous for. At midday the contrast is hard and the old town falls into deep shadow that serves nobody.
In practice that means setting the last hour of light aside for the couple session, and telling your guests, so that your absence does not surprise anyone.
The reception moves indoors, and all the venues above allow for it, with a special mention for the glasshouse at Crémat. For the couple session I would rather reschedule it for another day, later that week or beyond. You get your images in the light you had in mind.
Just over the hill, Villefranche-sur-Mer keeps the Rue Obscure under its old town; inland, Saint-Paul-de-Vence and its painters' village are best early in the morning or after six; westwards, Antibes adds ramparts and a cape of pines within half an hour.
Can we photograph in the old town on the wedding day? Without any particular difficulty, provided you accept the crowds and choose the hour. Early morning and late in the day, the lanes clear considerably.
How long between the town hall and the venue? If the reception is on the hills or towards Èze, allow forty-five minutes to an hour in season. The corniche is beautiful and slow.
Do we need a permit to photograph in public spaces? For a wedding reportage, no in the great majority of cases. Some heritage sites apply their own rules, which we check in advance.
Do you travel to Monaco and Antibes? Regularly. Many Nice weddings are celebrated in town and then move to an estate an hour away, and the reverse is just as common.
Is it too early, or too late, to enquire? For a summer Saturday in Nice, twenty months ahead is comfortable and twelve is tight. The longest lead I have been asked for here ran to two years, for a ceremony in the old town followed by a reception on the hills.
Tell me about your day, and we will work out together how it is photographed.